barbarian-days-a-surfing-life

Barbarian Days

Looking for a beach read this summer? Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life is a damn good book about surfing, worthy of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography.  The compelling book is William Finnegan’s memoir of his obsession with surfing, which he calls a beautiful addiction. In the book Finnegan describes his childhood growing up in California and Hawaii in the mid 1960s, his vagabond years hunting down secluded surf spots around the world, stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu, and taking LSD before hitting the waves of Honolua Bay on Maui, and when he almost died of malaria. For surfing aficionados, this will be the ultimate literary rush. $17

Posted in Art on July 8th 2016 comments
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